Part 3 of 3: The effect of the Pin Buffer distance on ball motion in Storm's Pin Buffer Layout System.
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Great videos Alex!! a TON of great information!
Really enjoyed the video series! Looking forward to more!
I feel like this should have been the first video, but overall great series! I know everybody has those non-bowling friends that ask the question, “is bowling really that technical, dude?”. Then you start explaining rg, pin placement, and psa and they give you that blank stare look Lol
Wonderful Series. Time to go quiz my pro. He was drilling bowling balls for Leanne Hulsenberg before she moved to Utah. He is a young guy, who drills my equipment that cracks in half after 6months. I just purchased a Storm Intense drilled 4-4-2. It is a used bowling ball, so it might crack also. I’m purchasing a used code red after my back surgery on Nov-18th. I asked him to drill this ball at 4-4-1. Am I correct about this. My avg. is 179..
Alan the layout will not have any impact on whether a ball cracks or not, as long as the locator pin is not partially drilled into. Partially drilled pin will void the warranty on the ball.
David Henson Yes, him and I spoke about this. He drilled my code red and put the pin in the middle of my fingers, 1 inch up. So waiting til next August, and my healing will be over..
Great video Alex a lot of great knowledge of bowling ball layouts!!
Now I’m more confused than before I watched the first video! I think I’ll stick to telling my pro shop guy things like “I need more length, and my ball doesn’t have enough continuation.” He seems to understand this a lot better than me.
I did, however, try a 3 3/8 drill on a ball I was having trouble with on heavier conditions and it made a HUGE difference. Don’t ask me what the other measurements are, but the pin to pap was the 3 3/8 measurement. It puts the pin touching the side of my ring finger and the MB is touching the thumb hole.
I wish more pro shop operators would watch this and read Alex’s blog on pin up vs. pin down. A whole lot of misinformation out there!
Thank you my twin name for the great information to what I’m knew to this kind of knowledge, now that I’ll observe this to any bowling video that I’ll watch. This could help me understanding and see what will my customer wants for his ball reaction in the future :).
What is the effect if you place your pin 2 inches to PAP with 1 inch buffer?
A ball that will start early and not flare a whole bunch. It will create an “arc” motion. Unless you have a huge Asym or really high revs, I wouldn’t suggest it. If you are using a big Asym, you can adjust the PSA to PAP and lower the transition time by lengthening the PSA to PAP.
I know this is an old comment, but this is incase anybody comes across this and is wondering.
Need video 4…putting them all together 🙂
I would love to see the same comparison with an assymetric ball. Will the difference get even bigger, or smaller?
It would have been nice to have a fourth video that brings all of these together. The first two videos (Pin to PAP and PSA to PAP) were remarkably similar in effect, that it’s hard to learn anything meaningful from it.
For instance… if both a medium Pin to PAP and PSA to PAP can create instability, which one should I drill for? Or do both come into play?
ok, i roll a slower ball with a fairly high rev rate so after watching all 3 videos I guess I want a 1 1/2 in. pin to pap, a 2in. psa to pap and a 4 in. pin buffer. I need all the help i can get. my ball hooks past the head pin, no matter how far left I stand, so im going to the pro shop and getting a ball with the weakest cover I can find and a mellow wt. block and have him drill it. I only bowl for fun with my buddys but I wish I could get my ball not to hook as much in thew back end.
Well done
The visuals of these videos are excellent. But I think there needs to be a version done for the layman. I’m an expert in certain fields. If I speak to my grandson using technical terms, his eyes will glaze over. But if I show him the same visual example with a practical explanation in terms he already understands, he will learn something.
Would like to see the same video, but with the 4 inch pin buffer higher in relation to the fingers. Think that should be do able?
You say you want a later hook and role phase when on a worn pattern, but in your other video, you say that pearl balls, which hook later, are bad for over under
Pearls save most of their energy for when they see dry. With worn lanes, that could be sooner if the pattern is really torn up. If it does see pockets of the dry, it will cause it to attempt a transition when there may be more oil causing it to skid once again.
I would like to see the bowling ball pictured according to where the PIN, PAP and orientation of the block are at release when discussing layouts (thumb hole up and finger holes down). When the bowling ball is pictured PIN up the finger holes actually are upside down. It requires mental gymnastics to imagine the positions of the PIN, PAP, and block when the bowling ball is pictured upside down.
This is simply an outstanding demonstration of a pin up vs pin down layout and how you can have two identical symmetrical balls laid out pin up and pin down for league bowling. When you see that ten pin start to stand as the game goes on, because energy is being lost due to the lane transitioning, pull out your same ball but with a pin down layout and watch that stored energy blast that ten pin out. Realize there are other adjustments you can make, this is just one you should have in your arsenal. Bottom line watch YOUR BALL “ROLL” through the pins and off the deck!
It’s not just pin-up vs pin-down. It’s a factor of the angle of the Vertical Axis Line from the Positive Axis Point to the Pin. You could shoot the Pin right above the bridge or middle finger and it would slow the transition time down tremendously.
excellent!!