24 Comments on “When Should You Change Bowling Balls?”

  1. Thank you ya sometimes I wait to late to make ball change. Then say what could of been. The reason I wait cuz I think I might have rushed foul line or pulled ball. Need to get mechanics more sound. HOW ABOUT BELMONT making change in 10 th frame. Against Shaun rash. Thanks again.

  2. Ok, so here’s the age-old conundrum: Do I make a zone change with the same ball, or do I make a ball change? And if my first move is a zone change with the same ball, how many frames do I give it, before I make the ball change? Many bowlers understand both lane play concepts or zone changes and ball changes, but it’s when to do which one and how long to stay with one before going to the other, where it can get confusing.

    1. Not gonna lie, usually I can just throw it harder, loft it a bit, and keep the same line and same ball, especially on house shots. I see a lot of bowlers change balls like 8 times during the set and they struggle quite a bit, when all they really needed to do was just keep the same target and either throw it harder or loft it a bit.

    2. If the ball motion is good, you have a little room for error and the ball is going through the pins well and carrying I’d probably stay with the same ball and just start moving further in as the lanes break down. When I start leaving more corner pins and slight moves don’t get rid of them, or when I start to have less room for error, I’d start looking to make a ball change and then also possibly a zone change if needed. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching, we appreciate it!!

  3. I think I I noticed the bowling ball is dying out at the end of the pattern that is my indication to move to something that’s going to pick up sooner.

    1. Me and a buddy was just Talking about that very thing Wednesday. The ball has used up all its stored energy.. It is just going to flatten out. For me it seams like the Asymmetrical balls do it more. I think they take a few RPMs to Rev up but any ball can do it. Especially if I don’t follow through.

    1. I like Shannon’s videos because she won’t let a guest mispeak as this young fella did a concerns a ball being behind the head pin. It’s not a live feed correct the error before it’s released. Bottomline, I like both coaches and will continue to watch and learn.

  4. Would be really nice if Mike or Shan could do some content about Purple Hammers and other super aggressive urethane balls that carry down oil at the backends on house shots, especially for bowlers who have lower rotation.

    This happened to me at league last night. Had an awesome look but then hit the speed bump cuz someone on my opposing team was using a purple hammer. Only five of us on the pair so it affected things a bit. Had to move all the way left, get a super aggressive asym ball, go to a one step approach, and loft it to the arrows to get even a semblance of motion.

  5. I would use sanded balls should the oil is thick. Should the oil is less after some game & the sanded ball breaks in early, I’ll changed to pearl surface. Not sure if that approach is correct or not

    1. If it is just open bowl or practice yes. But not if it is in a tournament. Not allowed but not 100% about league. I think it is Okay but not sure. But most leagues I have been have one shot they all know by heart. Most the time that is our house but they do mix it up for a few things.

      In fact, I just did that today. I knocked the 3k off my Jackal ghost down to 1,000. I have a tournament coming up the 27th.
      I had my pro Shop guy put the shot out on a pair so I could practice. I was standing 22 boards right of my normal shot. It was for real normally my seven pin shot that I was striking with….Man they really put the oil down so it holds up for 6 games with 10 bowers per pair. It is a 12 lane house and we switch lanes by rotation the next pair too the right.

      Sometimes it pays off to spend a lot of time there I guess. They like to keep me happy.😆😆 We have a great house.

  6. I didn’t like the intro, with him stating four pins. Ball motion through the pins and the balls deflection are indications for ball changes or zones as indicated when you showed his balls replayed during Coach Shady’s recap. We can’t lose folks with our words, because most new bowlers don’t watch the balls motion through the pins AND that’s the greatest indication of what your balls doing and when or what adjustment needs to be made. Just my two cents because I watch these videos because we can all learn something.

  7. I adjust my feet to get in the pocket but If I cant get there with the ball I am throwing or I am smashing it and not carrying pins I will change balls or ball placement on the lane. Sometimes you need a big angle some times you don’t. I never got much better than a 170 bowler until I started to build my arsenal. The biggest thing is to practice with all balls in your bag and know what they do and where they play best on the lanes. Even if that means bowling a lesser game in practice to get to know your equipment. The other big thing I learned is to trust my move or ball change. Don’t throw the same ball or motion again if it did not work the first time and certainly not if it failed you twice. So many times in the past I would wait tell I missed 4 or 5 strikes before I change and by then it is too late. There is way more to this game to be great at it. I almost always get my 600 series now and the 700s are happening way more often since I got all my gear and learn to really use it. I bowl 5 to 6 nights a week sometimes even more.

  8. I like my ball reaction to be smooth of the friction. So when the ball starts to comes off the friction too hard,I’ll try moving left and up a foot closer. That doesn’t work then I change to something less aggressive.

  9. You are great teachers. Thanks for everything. Love from Holland. I Like this channel.

  10. Richie Lucord (Me) 2 handed Left Handed
    (My Teammate) Nathan Galicia 1 handed Left handed Tweener

    Me and my Teammate has a Hard time dealing with Carry down at league, I start with my Idol Helios at 2000 Grit on the First game I was Striking a lot and scoring High and the Second game it looked Good, at the third last game I lost it at the Bottom left a 3 pin and Flat 7 pin

    My Teammate Nathan
    He starts with his Code X and in the First game he is Striking a lot, Second game Looked OK striking some, third Game He Lost it at the Bottom Left a Bucket 3 pin 9 pin

    We Both Moved a couple boards out and Still Labored down lane or Ran into Early Friction

    Give Both of us some tips on how to deal with carry down or our balls are starting to Burn up and they are Laboring We change Bowling balls My Symmetrical Pearl is the Zen my Teammate Nathan’s Pearl ball is the Marvel Pearl

    1. If the balls tend to be burning up a bit when you move a couple of boards out to combat the carry down, you may have to move the other direction and move a bit further in to get the ball through the fronts a little easier. Sometimes you can combat carry down be having a little bit stronger hand position to help the ball read a bit stronger. Sometimes the move to combat carry down is to move in more with slower ball speed down and go around the shot a bit more. Other times a ball change make be more effective. It could be a bit of trial and error to find what tends to work best you each of you on that shot in that league. Thanks for the question and good luck!

  11. I currently have a Phaze 2 and a Hustle CAMO. I honestly like my CAMO way more as the Phaze 2 hooks too much for me. With this video, should I typically start with the CAMO, and then once the transition hits should I switch to the Phaze 2? Also, would getting a pearl ball help? I’ve been looking at the Phaze 4, or I have also thought about getting a urethane and going with the Pitch Black.

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